Wednesday, October 21, 2020

Post 216 - The Scottish National Trail

I've got a colleague/friend at work who recently completed the Scottish National Trail. I wrote a short article, copied below, about his genuinely incredible and world-class achievement. The article speaks for itself, so no further detail here! I cycled out to visit him one day when he was on the trail, and I met him off the train after he had finished. He didn't look like a man who had just done what he had done, he looked remarkably fresh! I wish I could do the like!



Edinburgh resident Matt Girvan has just broken the record for the fastest time to complete the Scottish National Trail. The demanding 864km route winds its way from Kirk Yetholm near the English border, through the Borders, Central Belt, Cairngorms and the remote far north-west before finishing at Cape Wrath. Girvan completed the route unassisted in a time of 13 days, 19 hours and 35 minutes, eclipsing the previous record by a full 4 days. His accomplishment deserves high acclaim, ranking as a major achievement in the field of international adventure racing.

The modest 29-year-old New Zealander, a mechanical engineer who works for Scottish Water, covered 50-70km daily, putting in 14-16 hour days on the trail. He ran where possible, and power-hiked the sections where the terrain and elevation made running impossible. He chose to complete the trail in a “self-supported” manner, carrying all his own equipment including a tent, sleeping bag, clothing, navigational equipment, and enough food and drink for each section between top-ups in villages along the way.

Girvan, no stranger to feats of endurance, was elated on finishing and breaking the record, enthusing: “It’s only sinking in now! My main emotion is relief, I’m amazed at how well it all played out. I thought 15 days might be possible if it went well, but I’m over the moon to claim a new solo self-supported record of less than 14 days. It’s nice not to have to do it all again tomorrow! I’m looking forward to a shower, some proper hot meals, and maybe a wee dram!”

Earlier in the summer, Girvan completed the arduous “Bob Graham Round”, summiting 42 peaks in the Lake District over a 106km circuit, in less than 24 hours. This gave him confidence to press on with his plans for the Scottish National Trail. He explained: “The trail seemed like a brilliant way for me to get a snapshot of many iconic Scottish landscapes in one trip. It normally takes 6-7 weeks but I couldn’t take that much time off work. So I started to wonder how quickly I could do it…”

Meticulous planning and training underpinned Girvan’s success and he related, “There were a lot of good times on the trail. The scenery was unreal and I was generally lucky with the weather. The infamous Scottish midges didn’t bother me too much! Sharing sunsets in remote glens with only the wild deer for company was amazing. I celebrated my 29th birthday on the trail and made it to Kinlochewe just in time for last orders – toasted sandwiches, soup and coffee – my first hot food for days!”

It wasn’t all plain sailing however. A bone stress injury meant Girvan was unable to run at all in the latter part of 2019, but he battled back to fitness throughout 2020. On the trail, he had to contend with fatigue, blisters, poor weather, darkness, difficult logistics, and having to ration his food and drink in order to have enough to make it to the next village – often a couple of days away. He admitted: “It was easily the toughest thing I’ve done in terms of overall fatigue on my mind and body. Getting out of my sleeping bag every morning at 5am in the dark and cold was tough. I was often tempted to stay in my tent for a few more hours, but I knew this would be eroding the overall time. Once I actually got up and got moving, things were better!”

The final day to Cape Wrath proved exceptionally challenging, with a 14-day finishing time tantalisingly close. Girvan described the final stretch, saying, “The finish didn’t yield easily. It took a 19-hour day to get the job done, with the final few hours spent navigating in darkness through bog in bitterly cold rain before I finally finished at the lighthouse at 1:09am on 25th September.”

Girvan’s exploits have also doubled as a fundraiser for WaterAid and he has been raising awareness of the work the charity does: enabling people to gain access to safe water, sanitation and hygiene education. He explained: “WaterAid are a fantastic charity and I’ve come to know about their amazing work through Scottish Water’s partnership with them. Their focus on hygiene seemed particularly important in the current pandemic. Also, the importance of finding clean drinking water was a big focus whilst on the trail, so there were lots of parallels and I wanted to try to raise some money and awareness.” To date, Girvan has raised almost £4000, and his fundraising website is still available on: https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/matt-walks

A GPS tracker allowed many thousands of followers to track Girvan’s progress in real time, with one saying, “Following this has been the highlight of the last 6 months!” Girvan was overwhelmed with the support, messages and donations from all over the globe, commenting: “It has been unbelievable, and it really was a highlight of the trip. It made me feel that I wasn’t out there alone. The sum raised for WaterAid is truly incredible!” In an illustration of the sense of community amongst ultra-runners, Girvan was eager to pay tribute to the previous record holder, stating, “Special thanks also to Graham Nash of Carnethy Hill Runners, who was very helpful with his advice and encouragement.”

And what next for this intrepid, elite endurance athlete? He grinned: “For now, resting, sleeping and eating! I’ll put together a trip report and make a short film of the journey, but in terms of sport, I’ll be back to the drawing board. I’d like to channel my strength back into shorter-distance running in the hope that there might be some events coming up, but I’ll make sure to rest up well before thinking about that!”


I also wrote a slightly less formal half-way update:


#walkingforwater update (should really be #runningforwater !)

I’m a fairly close colleague/friend of Matt’s. I’ve been on leave for the last week and a half, and I cycled out to visit Matt on the trail. Matt is an experienced hiker/runner/endurance athlete and has completed challenges all over the world. He has told me a bit about some of these challenges. I’ve also dabbled in endurance sport myself, in single-day events and in multi-day or month-long events. Matt and I had an interesting socially-distanced debate over what was tougher – Matt’s Bob Graham Round (a fell-running challenge in the Lake District which involves climbing 42 peaks over a 106km route, with 8200m of ascent, in less than 24 hours), or “Everesting” on a bike (cycling up and down the same hill repeatedly until you have climbed the height of Mount Everest).

But Matt’s 864km Scottish National Trail challenge, from Kirk Yetholm on the English border to Cape Wrath in the far remote north-west, where he is attempting to break the solo unsupported record (currently standing at 18 days – Matt is hoping for around 15 days), is so far beyond anything I can possibly get my head around – if he completes it and takes the record (and I believe he will), I would rank it right up there as a major elite global/international endurance achievement. He is also raising money for WaterAid and raising awareness of the importance of water sources – it will be essential for him to be able to access clean, safe water every day.

The first thing that struck me, when he appeared on the ridge, still some distance away, was how fast he was moving. To describe his challenge as “Walking For Water” isn’t doing justice to the reality of what he is doing. He is running, as much as he possibly can. He needs to move rapidly to make sure he covers enough distance every day (50 to 80km per day, depending on the difficulty of the terrain and the elevation), so he can have a chance at breaking the record time for the trail.

He ran towards me, and was happy to briefly stop and chat. He was remarkably fresh. Admittedly it was quite early in his challenge, but he was very upbeat and in good shape. I had brought with me a WaterAid t-shirt, intending to give it to him, so that he could take it with him and use it for photo opportunities at various locations – lochs, reservoirs, top-up-taps etc. Matt is intending to complete this 864km route entirely unsupported, and so couldn’t accept the t-shirt. He had meticulously planned every single item he would need, trying only to take what was absolutely necessary in order to keep the weight of his rucksack down. He wouldn’t take the t-shirt as it could be seen as an extra layer which could be used to change into if a t-shirt got wet, or an extra layer of warmth. He had decided on his kit before he started, and couldn’t change anything while en route, otherwise it would be seen as outside support and would invalidate the attempt. Regardless, he did agree to wear the t-shirt briefly for a couple of photographs!

He told me that he travelled down from Edinburgh to the start, via public transport, after a day of work. His challenges immediately started – he had been hoping to take a bus directly to Kirk Yetholm but it turned out this wasn’t operating, so he had a to take a train and then a bus to Wooler (in England!), followed by a night-time 20km “warm up” hike just to reach his starting point – an extra 20km in the dark probably wasn’t what he needed before he had even reached the start… but he got through it with his usual good humour and made the best of it.

I asked if I could lift his rucksack. Another thing that immediately struck me was just how heavy it was! He had endeavoured to keep the weight down as much as possible, but he was attempting an 864km route on foot, solo, unsupported, through some of the most remote and inhospitable terrain in Scotland, if not the UK, if not Europe. Things like a tent, a sleeping bag, maps for the route, a GPS tracker, torch, changes of clothes, clothing for the worst of the Scottish weather, first aid supplies, and enough food and water to get through perhaps a couple of days without ever seeing any form of civilisation – all these things add up to what I thought was a fairly heavy rucksack – I wouldn’t have fancied walking with it for a day, never mind running with it for two weeks…

Broadly speaking, the “easier” section is the first half of the route, with less severe elevation changes and also generally never more than half a day from a town or village where supplies can be replenished (one comment was “Sainsbury’s was brilliant – food, water and a toilet last night and this morning!”) In the first half of the route, Matt has completed higher mileage per day, in order that he might have some leeway up in the wild west and wild north sections. He is anticipating having to carry food and water in greater quantities during the more remote and challenging sections, weighing him down a bit: another comment was that the descent of the infamous Corrieyairack Pass was “pretty tough with a rucksack on”, but it seems the incredible sunset and sunrise and having the entire pass to himself more than made up for it…

He is well into the way of things now, probably over two-thirds of the way through, well on schedule, everything seeming to hold up as well as he could hope, and he has a good daily routine – wake up before dawn, pack things away, run/walk/eat/drink, then 50-80km later pitch the tent and sleep! The more remote sections of the far north and west await, and the Indian summer seems to have passed (Matt’s comment from a few days ago: “It’s HOT!!!”), meaning less clement weather may be ahead.

He said, “There’s much more epic scenery now but the trails are certainly much tougher. I had a few days where I was struggling to keep to my schedule but I seem to have picked up and am just ahead of schedule now. My feet and body are pretty beat up, but I am managing, and I always seem to recover surprisingly well overnight!”

Hopefully everyone’s support, the lure of the finish and the record-breaking time will help him through his final week, as will knowing he has raised a significant sum of money for WaterAid – currently standing at almost £2500! He’s very grateful for all the support and is sorry that he isn’t able to post more regular updates – his attention on the trail is fully focused on each step, and making sure that each step is a “good step” – he certainly doesn’t want to be twisting an ankle or tripping etc. Often he is out of reach of any sort of phone signal as well, so I said I would post this update on his behalf!

Some links:
 

The Scottish National Trail:
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/scottish-national-trail.shtml

Matt’s GPS tracker:
https://maps.findmespot.com/s/PXDB#history/assets

 Matt’s fundraising page:
https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/matt-walks